Last Week in Paradise

My whole experience in Uganda was full of hard things, but nothing was as hard as saying goodbye to my friends. Everywhere I went, I left people in tears. They really cared about me, and I really cared about them. Four months ago I came to Uganda a stranger- now I can’t even walk to town without running into friends. Leaving them was the hardest thing I’ve ever done. 

There's nothing like being tackled by screaming black children. 

Even though it was hard, my last week in Uganda was the best yet. I kept busy up to the last day. From teaching Anatomy and Physiology to witnessing a 9 hour brain surgery, not a single day was wasted. Even during my last week I was meeting new people and making new friends.

 I finally got to teach an Anatomy and Physiology class to go along with my murals. Above is my good friend Stephen. 

On our second to last day we got to watch a 9 hour brain surgery. The human body is incredible! All summer I wanted to watch a brain surgery but there wasn't much free time. I was able to go to the hospital early in the summer and make contacts, but until the last week I was unable to go. Other volunteers who had visited were only able to shadow doctors doing normal check-ups but miraculously one of the surgeons recognized me from 3 months before and hooked me up with another surgeon doing a tumor removal. We were literally 2-3 feet from the surgery. Incredible. 

My last, and favorite, project was teaching the local street kids. My friend, Alex, (far right) a teacher at the school where I did my paintings, asked if I could come teach some of his street kid friends. Alex used to be a street kid and now spends his extra time and resources helping other kids who are going through the same thing. I spent all week praying and trying to figure out what I could teach these kids that would make a difference. I had a lesson plan- but as soon as I got up to teach, I put my plan away and taught a completely different lesson. I taught from the heart. It was the best lesson I've ever taught. And at the end of my lesson I had each kid write down a goal to work towards. These kids have bright futures. 

These are the goals they wrote. 

Three of my friends who helped me teach were professional Rappers, Beat-boxers, and Break-dancers. They have their own organisation that works with street kids. With or without help from people like me, Uganda has leaders working to push through poverty. It's the people like this that are shaping Uganda's future. 

My friend Alex, a premedical student. He's the top of his class in every subject but computer tech. 

I spent a day walking around town selling avocados (in the bowl on my head) for my friend Carol (yellow shirt). She has dropped out of school to sell produce until she can raise enough money to go back to school. She is only 12 years old. 

Even Immaculate cried when I left.. She's one of the strongest and kindest women I know. (My Dentist for both dental outreaches) 

One of the hardest goodbyes was to my primary class. I love each one of them so much! 

On my last Sunday, my friend Stephen (far left) was baptized. I got to attend 5 of my primary kids baptisms this summer. 

And now I'm home. And it's nice to be home. But I’d give anything to go back to my hypothermia showers and malaria net beds. I miss my Ugandan home. People here are different- not as talkative, not as kind, not as happy. It’s amazing how people in Uganda love so deeply and are so happy even when their lives are so tough. 

ALSO, the food here is unbelievable. This is an Avocado. I searched all over Walmart for Avocados.. I thought these were limes.. 

THIS is a Ugandan Avocado. And this Avocado isn't even a big one, it's just average. 

Being Home has forced me to learn to cook. American food just isn't as good any more. Even my roommate said this was the best thing she'd ever eaten. #crushedit. 

Even with another school year ahead, I'm already planning ways to go back. Uganda was a magical place. I think Uganda is the closest to heaven I've ever been. And that's why I have to go back. Next year. 

Any questions about Uganda, my trip there, or ways you can help, don't hesitate to ask. 

Living with Africans, Kabwangasi Clinic, Painting, and Leadership

Every day here is an adventure. Every day I’m surprised. Every day I learn something new. Looking back I don’t remember  what projects I worked on each day, but I remember lessons I’ve learned. I’ve spent many of the days these last 3 weeks living with Africans like an African. Cultural differences prevent me from accurately describing what it’s like here. I think in the US we think of Africa as a sad place full of sickness and poverty- but it’s not. The people here must be the happiest on Earth.

Three weekends ago we were invited to a friend's birthday party. Celebrating Birthdays is uncommon here, but David was wealthy enough to have friends and family over. I think we were the only sober group there. The next morning I got up early with his sons to hike the tallest mountain in Bududa. On top we could look down on Kenya. The views were incredible, but the people living on the mountain were more incredible. The whole hike we were able to eat wild fruits and other fruits given to us from locals. The fruits didn't even have names in English. 

Two weeks ago I stayed at a community called Zion. I don't think I slept at all. The adults in the community have been difficult to work with, but the children are eager to learn. The children made the visit worth it. 

A place where I slept even less than Zion was on top of Mount Wanale. But it was worth it. On top I felt like I could see the whole world. 

I've also spent other free nights working in the Maternity ward at Health Center 4 in Buseu. I've gotten to do plenty of vaginal exams but no deliveries yet. Perhaps next week. (picture is of baby James born at 12:30 today)

Although spending nights with friends has been fun, the days have still been productive. Since the beginning of my trip I've worked towards opening a clinic in a town called Kabwangasi. Finding staff, choosing a building, deciding on medications, and doing calculations to make sure it's sustainable have taken most of my free time. Before we opened, patients were already lining up outside. Life Care Medical Center is one of only two clinics in the whole area. Why open one where there's already health care? The other clinic is a government clinic. Government clinics do the best they can, but because of high demand for free health care, they are often understaffed and out of supplies. Because of the high demand patients offer money to be seen first- the more wealthy people are seen earlier, and the poorest people often die waiting in line. By charging a 3000 UGX consult fee (instead of free health care) we're able to make sure everyone is treated equally while also keeping the clinic sustainable. I'll post more pictures next week after our malaria testing outreach. 

Working at different health centers has been fun, helping with dental and eye surgeries has been fun, and opening my own clinic has been fun. But my favorite project has been just painting a mural at one of the secondary schools in town. Often my projects keep me busy- too busy to really bond with the students and patients- but this project has been different. For 12 days I spent all day from 7am to 7pm standing on a chair to paint anatomy charts for the future medical students at this school. Of course I've been friends with many of the students since the first day, but being around for so long has built real friendships. The types of friends that I'll visit again when I come next year. They've opened up to me and I've been able to have a unique view of the culture that I think many volunteers have missed. I've been able to ask them about African things I don't understand, and they've been able to ask me about American culture. Having to answer simple questions about why Americans act the way they do has opened my eyes to the way other countries view the United States. 

I'll admit, I don't really like Obama, but when I first came here I appreciated him simply because of what he meant to the Africans. When Obama went to Kenya and asked them to be more accepting of gays, those views changed. Homosexuality is such a hot topic here that I'm not supposed to talk to Africans about it at all, but when my students ask me to explain, I can't refuse. This week a friend came to ask me why would God let someone like Museveni be president- a man who, in his opinion, shouldn't have been put in power. This led to questions about why God would let someone like Obama be in power when he clearly supports things that God doesn't support. I think it comes down to agency. Although Museveni has done a lot of horrible things, he's also done a lot of good for Uganda. I think Obama has made a lot of stupid decisions, but overall the economy has improved. Perhaps both have abused their power, but they have the agency to do so. It's sad to see that the Africans who used to love Obama are now doubting him. It reminds me of a little brother idolizing a big brother until they realize he's as flawed and human as everyone else. I wish Obama knew the affects he had on even my students here in Uganda. I wish Museveni and the other leaders understood what a difference they could make for their country if they just made up their minds to. And me, I realized that I'm a leader. And in reality, everyone is a leader at some point. So, lets act like leaders.

Villages, Gorillas, Rwanda, and Babies

Last week (what I really mean is 2 weeks ago) was crazy. I know I say that every week, but I’m serious every time. There are so many things I can’t describe so hopefully the pictures can help you understand what it’s really like here. We started the week with another eye (glasses and eye drops) outreach and finished with another cataracts outreach. This week we treated 172 for eye conditions, and many more received cataracts surgeries. In between those projects I taught institute, worked on my muscular system painting, and helped educate young girls about reusable menstrual pads (RUMPS).

We had to teach how to give eye drops..

I also never realized how hard it was to teach young girls to sew. Not sure how long these pads will last…. But at least they’re pad shaped…

Again grateful for the multiple uses for Athletic tape. Entertaining boys during a RUMPs project isn't easy. 

After taking care of all my projects I left for Rwanda with my friends Matt and Holli (part of my group) and my African friends Moses and Stephen. I think of all the vacations I’ve had this was the worst I’ve ever had- and that’s why it was the best. On the way to Rwanda we stopped in several towns to visit friends and cool sights.

Several years ago I visited the equator in Ecuador, at the time I never would have thought I’d visit the equator again on the other side of the world.

While visiting my friend Moses’s family he introduced us to his neighbor, a young boy who takes care of bee hives and sells honey to pay for his school fees. We were happy to buy honey from him. This was the best and sweetest honey I’ve ever had. Even walking by the hives you could smell them from more than 20 feet away.

Their community was so kind! I don’t think I’ve ever been in a place where I felt so loved and welcomed. My friend Moses was the only one that spoke English, but even with the language barrier we loved each other.

His mom was one of the coolest ladies! I didn’t want to cross the river across the collapsed bridge to hike to their house- but his mom did it in high heels.. If she can do it while in her 70s, I can do it too. And I did.

 The next day we visited the Pigmi tribe.. they’re real! The night before meeting them in their village we saw one at a restaurant and wanted to talk to him. But he didn’t speak English. Holli turned to Moses to ask him for a favor and he said “Sure, But don’t ask me to go over there, I’m scared of him!” It was hilarious! Even though the pigmis are tiny, I guess they can be scary.

The Pigmis were great, but there was a huge contrast between their tribe and Moses’s tribe. The Pigmis loved us because they knew we had money. The whole 20 minute walk back to our car the children followed and said over and over and over “give me money!” That’s the only English they knew. When we were leaving Moses’s tribe they kept saying goodbye and handing us gifts because they loved us- not for our money, but because of who we were. We were friends, not a means to an end.

The Pigmis culture has been ruined by Mzungus coming in and handing out money. A lot of the problems we face as NGO workers are because communities expect free handouts. There are many communities we visit but are unable to teach because they are unwilling to listen. They sit and wait for foreign aid. And it’s a problem. Their communities suffer. The communities we end up working with are the ones hungry for education. They know the best way to get out of poverty is to do it themselves without waiting for outside help. The communities who don’t expect free handouts are the ones that are receptive to our teaching and they’re the communities who will one day bring Uganda out of poverty.

People are lined up all day to get water, but when we passed, they were leaving their places in line to ask us for money.

We also visited a third community- a refugee camp in south Uganda. It wasn’t as exciting as it sounds, but hearing their stories opens your eyes to many more problems people face in Africa. Right now, many of the refugees are from Brundi. When we went to Rwanda most of the hostels were also filled with people from Brundi who weren’t accepted in the refugee camps. Hopefully their political unrest will end soon.

We were also lucky enough to see the Silver Back Gorillas. They were BEAUTIFUL. There aren’t words to describe the experience there.

While we were wandering through the forest to find them I was talking to Moses about his cannibal ancestors- he swore he wasn’t a cannibal (even though cannibalism is still practiced). While talking he turned to Matt and Holli, put his arm around me and said “If I was a cannibal I’d eat this one because she’s fat!” and it was the funniest compliment I’ve ever heard! We still laugh about it.

Entering Rwanda was exciting, but that’s because we had no idea what a struggle was ahead.

In Rwanda nobody speaks English. It was hard just finding food. On the bus ride to the city a kind lady on the bus shared her breakfast with me- it was sad I couldn’t even thank her for her kindness. Somehow we met a man from Uganda who did speak English and he helped show us around town. Finding him was a miracle. Otherwise we would have missed the main sites we wanted to see.

Everywhere we went there were memorials with thousands of bodies buried at each site. We traveled to one Church (Tutsis would hide in churches because they thought they would be safe inside. They weren’t.) to see thousands of dead bodies, and less than 10 minutes down the road we could see the same thing at another church or another school. 10,000 at one+ 4,000 at the next+ 100,000 at the next +another with 20,000, etc.  It was hard to see.

The hardest was the skulls of all the children. There was a wall at a school where the children had their heads smashed in against the wall. The wall is still covered in blood and brain and skull. In the main museum they have stories from the children that died. Patrick, age 6, liked to ride his bike and eat rice and beans. Another girl, age 8, who loved jogging with her dad. Sisters, ages 2 and 4, both dady’s girls who loved cake. Story after story. If they had lived they would be my age.

After visiting the museums we went to the community built for the survivors to hear their stories too. Every story I heard was hard. There aren’t words for it.

The ride home was also insane. Fun fact- prisoners are transported in public taxis with the rest of us.

I rolled my window down (because we’re in Africa. It’s really hot.) and the taxi driver pulled over, got out, and rolled it back up without even talking to me. I guess if the prisoner escaped from the man who was holding him down, they didn’t want him to get out through the windows? Definitely not the best taxi ride I’ve had…

So many other crazy things happened but I can’t tell them all without this post turning into a novel. And for most of the stories there just aren’t words.

On Wednesday we set out for Mbale. We wanted to take the 4AM YY bus home. Our tickets even said 4AM, but the bus didn’t leave til 6AM. I had planned to deliver some babies for my birthday to celebrate, but because I was 2 hours late, I missed all the deliveries that day. I was sad I couldn’t celebrate my birthday the way I wanted to, but my team still made my birthday the best ever by making me a chapatti cake. I’m so grateful for the incredible people I’ve met here.
 

Because I missed all the Wednesday births I went early today to see any deliveries. Fortunately I arrived at the same time as a woman ready to give birth. She was completely dilated but contractions were still too far apart. We waited and encouraged and waited. She had awful discharge which was a bad sign- it showed that she used natural drugs to induce dilation even though the baby wasn’t ready to come. While we waited I got to examine the tummy and check the heart rate. There was a heart rate. After 3 hours of waiting, the nurse decided to inject oxytocin to induce labor. The baby was coming. Except the baby was breach. On the way out she suffocated. And we couldn’t save her. And it was really hard.

When the nurse realized the baby was dead she put her on the mom’s chest, cut the cord, then took the baby by her feet, wrapped her up, and left her to be burned. All while yelling at the mother for taking the natural drugs. That’s how it’s done here. No comfort, just scolding for a problem that could have been prevented. As a volunteer I’m not supposed to cry- After the whole ordeal I had to leave.

There are hard days here. I’d be lying if I said it was all rainbows and butterflies. But I love every second of it. I love the Ugandan people so much. One of my favorite poems says

 “Your joy is your sorrow unmasked

And the selfsame well from which your laughter rises

was oftentimes filled with your tears. 

And how else can it be?

The deeper that sorrow carves into your being,

the more joy you can contain.” 

I’m grateful for the hard times. There really aren’t words for the things I’ve witnessed. But every time I suffer with them I love them more. I love their strength, and their persistence, and their attitudes towards life. And it’s the suffering that makes us close. It’s the suffering that helps me understand. Just like the suffering Christ did to help us be close to him. He understands. I can never understand the mother’s feelings, just as you will never understand mine as I delivered a dead baby. But Christ does. He understands.

South Uganda

North Rwanda 

Painting, Dental Outreach 2, and Cataracts

 First- Dad I’m not ignoring your e-mails, gmail just legitimately won’t load. Not sure why blogspot does and gmail doesn’t- but here I am. I’ll catch up on e-mails later.

I finally finished the first part of my painting this past week! (This is 1/3, there are 2 more figures on the way.) The students loved it. I’m getting to know them pretty well by sitting in on their physics and chemistry classes all day long. It’s so cool to see how dedicated they are to becoming doctors even in secondary school (high school). The school system here is different than in America and it only takes 5 years to become a doctor after secondary school. Some of these students will be doctors before I am.

Life-sized skeleton named Francis

Last week was busier than usual, and this week will be even busier than the last. The rush to complete all the big projects has started. Last week I organized another dental outreach- it went pretty well. I think by now I’m pro at giving pep talks to scared children.

Preparing lidocane and adrenaline injections

This procedure would have normally cost them 90000 shillings ($30) which is more than a normal family can afford. Instead I was able to help provide this procedure for free. 

The next day I helped with an eye outreach. I acted as pharmacist for all of the eye medications. We helped 186 people with vision and medical eye problems. #crushedit.

I used Athletic Tape to label the different piles of glasses. And... apparently Athletic Tape can double as stickers. 

As cool as the dental and eye outreaches were, nothing was quite as cool as the cataracts outreach on Friday and Saturday. We interviewed and selected 13 people to have a life changing cataracts surgery on Friday. Getting to know the patients was incredible- but even better was following them into the surgery room and standing literally next to the doctor as he performed surgery. (even better was that he let me take pictures!!!) One of the old men, Jon, who I followed through surgery started laughing and talking excitedly (DURING the surgery… Dr. Bakaki had to tell him to stop moving…) because for the first time in years he could see light. 

Scrubbed in for surgery :)

Dr. Bakaki (This guy is my hero. Seriously. He's a surgeon weekdays and a banana farmer on weekends. He's one of the coolest kindest men I've ever met.) 

We went early Saturday morning to see the bandages removed and people everywhere were crying. I’ve hardly seen any crying here in Africa- but giving sight to these people was worth crying over. The youngest patient was Patrick, age 18, if he’s able to regain his sight he wants to become an eye surgeon someday. He has 2 years left in secondary school - he often gets up as early as 2am to study. Hopefully giving him his sight will allow him to live his dreams. After surgery he was pointing at objects and teaching me their Lugandan names. He can now see around 5 meters ahead. He’s been blind since birth. There was nothing like it :)

Me and Patrick

Can you imagine how excited the blind man must have been when Jesus gave him his sight? Can you imagine how he must have wept to see his friends and family for the first time? I got to see what it was like for Patrick to see a car for the first time and identify it as a car. He finally got to see me- just a crazy mzungu girl, and together we were happy. 

Surely this is the most beautiful place. And now those 13 friends can see the beauty too.